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As I mentioned in my previous post, things are starting to move as far as the Setouchi Triennale 2019 is concerned, and today I was with some people from Koebi Network and the Triennale’s organizing committee for a Tour de Shodoshima. And I mean a literal one; we went all around the island in a way that I had never done before. There was even a part where I hadn’t been to (between Obe and Fukuda: spoiler alert, not the most exciting part, unless you like stone quarries).

In short, we arrived in Tonosho, headed to Nakayama via Hitoyama, then to Obe (via Hitoyama again). From Obe, we went to Fukuda, and from Fukuda we headed to Sakate (via Yasuda). From Sakate, we reached the 24 Eyes Movie Village, and our final stop was the Olive Park before returning to Tonosho and back to Takamatsu via ferry. That’s about 80 km.

I’m not gonna get into details, but here is a photo dump from today:


Shodoshima November 2018 1

The problem with Shodoshima compared to the other islands, is that it’s too big to take a single picture of it when you’re approaching. It just doesn’t fit in the frame.


Shodoshima November 2018 6 Nakayama


Nakayama’s Kabuki Theater. The island was famous (still kinda is) for its Kabuki theaters. There were 30 at its peak (in the early 20th Century), all managed by locals. I understand that it was something pretty unique to Japan (to have so many rural theaters). There are only two left. This one and the one in Hitoyama, one kilometer or so downhill. They are still functional and are used regularly.


Shodoshima November 2018 2 Nakayama


Nakayama is also famous for its terraced rice fields (supposedly one thousand of them 😉 ), not something too common in the area either:


If you’ve been there because of the Setouchi Triennale, you may think that something is missing in the pictures. Don’t worry, the fourth iteration of the artwork will be built shortly.



Shodoshima November 2018 9 Shodoshima Tree

Shodoshima Tree by Kohei Takekoshi in Obe

A very unique kind of “ready-made” (not really, but kind of?)


Shodoshima November 2018 8 Shodoshima Tree



Shodoshima November 2018 12 Fukita Pavilion


Fukita Pavilion by Ryue Nishizawa in Fukuda


Shodoshima November 2018 13 Fukutake House

Fukutake House (Asia Art Platform) in Fukuda


Shodoshima November 2018 14 Fukita Hachiman Shrine

Fukita Hachiman Shrine in Fukuda


Shodoshima November 2018 15 The Star Anger in Sakate

The Star Anger by Kenji Yanobe in Sakate


Legend of Shodoshima by Kenji Yanobe (designer) and Miki Okamura (painter)


Shodoshima November 2018 20 ei

ei in Sakate

Not the most interesting picture. I took it for my friend Dru after a conversation on his blog about whether the place was open outside of the Triennale. And the answer is… it seems open, but not to the public. The first floor was closed, but the second floor was open. I still don’t have a definite answer (I meant to ask and I forgot as we moved on to out new destination), but I guess there are some artists in residence all the time, but the place is open to the public only during the Triennale or something along these lines.


Shodoshima November 2018 21 Bollard of Love


Bollard of Love by Hisakazu Shimizu (next to the 24 Eyes Movie Village)


Funny how I missed this artwork in 2016, but I’ve seen it twice in less than three months now. Not the most exciting piece, I must admit – Shimizu’s work in Umaki is much more fun and interesting in my opinion.


Shodoshima November 2018 22 Bollard of Love



Shodoshima November 2018 23

Our next destination. Can you see it?


Here it is, Olive Park and its famous Greek Windmill among other things (other things being mostly olive trees):


Shodoshima November 2018 26 Greek Windmill


And soon I was time to return home. Not before an amazing sunset over the Seto Inland Sea (including Ogijima and Megijima). For some reason, I think some of the best sunsets of the year are in the Fall and there, between Shodoshima and Takamatsu. I was afraid I had missed the window this year (last September – my last trip to Shodoshima before today – was still a bit early and it was cloudy anyway on  that day), except that I didn’t:


Shodoshima November 2018 27 Sunset over the Seto Inland Sea



3 thoughts on “Tour de Shodoshima”

  1. Happy to see it is still around. Although still wondering if Shodoshima will be worth it for me. We’ll see. For some reason, I feel the spring edition won’t be great compared to summer and fall. Spring 2013 was great, but felt the other 2 seasons offered something more interesting. I’ll still reserve judgement till the artwork is officially announced and we get the preview pics.

    1. I think Shodoshima is always worth it, art or no art.

      I see what you mean as far as seasons are compared. I think the big difference between 2013 and 2016 is that in 2013 pretty much all the new art was available from the Spring session, while in 2016, a lot of new things didn’t start until the Summer or even the Autumn.

      Not sure what’s it’s going to be this time.

  2. Greek Windmill it stands proundly above Oliva Park of thousand deep scents and amazing Sunset such as magnificent journey over the Seto Island Sea… Oyasumi my Love)))

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