Setouchi Explorer
Japanese Islands, Art and more…
Setouchi Explorer
Japanese Islands, Art and more…

Ogijima Art Guide

Ogijima is without a doubt my favorite island in the Setouchi area. While I was already enamored with the island before the Setouchi Triennale started, the artworks that can be found there made me love the island even more. Add to that some of the friendliest people you’ll ever meet and you get a place that’s unique and wonderful despite its small size.

It is also the island that has probably benefited the most from the revitalization efforts in the area. The island that you will discover during your visit has nothing to do with the sleepy and slowly dying island that I discovered in the late 2000s.

Thanks to the islanders’ hard work, the island has become attractive enough that it gains new full-time residents on a regular basis. These new residents, in turn, bring their own skills, specialties, and energy to make the island even more attractive, interesting and sustainable. The island is on the right path not only to survive but possibly even strive in the near future. Don’t forget that the Setouchi Triennale’s mission is not just to create “art islands”. Its main goal is to save this wonderful region that is in danger of dying because it suffers from the triple threat of the general depopulation all over the country, rural flight that hits the countrysides all over the world and finally “island exodus”, a insular variation of rural flight that accentuates the pattern even more on small islands.

  • Land area: 1,38 km2
  • Circumference: 5 km
  • Highest Point: 213 m
  • Population in March 2019: 172 in 108 households

Getting there

The regular way to go to Ogijima is by a ferry called Meon that departs from Takamatsu.
A one-way trip lasts about 40 minutes and costs 510 yen.
Ferries leave every two hours. On even-numbered hours to the island from Takamatsu (from 8 am to 6 pm) and odd-numbered hours from the island to Takamatsu (from 7 am to 5 pm).

 

Getting around the island

While you can rent electrical bicycles on the islands, you cannot use them inside the village where most of the art is located. They will only be useful if you want to quickly reach the island’s lighthouse located to the northern end of the island.

Inside the village, the only way to get around is to walk. Wear comfortable shoes, the village is built on the side of a hill, some streets can be steep.

 

More

For more information feel free to check out Hinomaple’s Ogijima Page:

Ogijima Guide (2016 Setouchi Triennale)

 

Artworks

Usually, outdoor artworks are free and accessible in permanence.

Unless stated otherwise, indoor artworks are open every day during the Setouchi Triennale (and closed every day in between sessions of the Triennale).

Entrance to indoor artworks usually cost 300 yen without a Triennale Passport. Entrance is free for children and teenagers younger than 16.

 

 

Art on Ogijima

Please note that the Setouchi Triennale 2019 has ended and the Art Setouchi 2020 season hasn’t started yet. As such, the information below is not currently up-to-date and most artworks are closed either permanently or until March 2020. If you have any question do not hesitate to ask them on the Art Setouchi Facebook group that I manage. Thank you.

og01

Ogijima’s Soul

Jaume Plensa (2010)

Review: The building is wonderful. I just can’t get tired of it. Note that it is not only art but also a visitor center where one can find information, souvenirs, ferry tickets and more.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

 

og02

Takotsuboru

(Catching Octopus)

Team Ogi (2019)

  • Open every day from 9.30 am to 4.15 pm (you can see it in permanence as it’s outdoors).
  • Access is free.
  • Team Ogi online: Facebook
  • On the site

Review: a very cute playground for kids.
⭐⭐⭐⭐

 

og03

Generative Wall Drawing on Japanese Paper House

Goro Murayama (2019)

  • New
  • Open every day during the Setouchi Triennale (9.30 am to 4.15 pm)
  • Entrance fee: 300 yen (free with a Triennale Passport)
  • Goro Murayama online: Site

Review: Interesting paintings all over the inside of the house. However, there’s something missing, not sure what for me to be really touched by it. I need to see it again.
⭐⭐⭐

 

og04

The Sea Within – The See Within

Sarah Westphal (2019)

  • New
  • Open every day during the Setouchi Triennale (9.30 am to 4.15 pm)
  • Entrance fee: 300 yen (free with a Triennale Passport)
  • A limited number of people is allowed at the same time
  • Sarah Westphal online: Site
  • Sarah Westphal Interview

Review: Stunning, beautiful, meditative. One of my new favorites.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

 

og05

Project for wall painting in lane, Ogijima Wallalley

Rikuji Makabe (2010, 2018)

Review: I love those walls, spread out all over the village and that gives it a more lively and colorful tint here and there. Art that fits and becomes part of its environment is always the best.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

 

og06

Onba Factory

Onba Factory (2010-2019)
Current members are Yoshifumi Oshima – director and founder – and Katsumasa Hashimoto (former members: Atsushi Yamaberi, Keiichi Dai, Yumi Nagano, Kojiro Nakai).

  • During the Setouchi Triennale: open every day from 9.30 am to 4.15 pm.
  • Outside of the Setouchi Triennale dates: open on weekends and holidays from 11.00am to 4.30pm from mid-March to early November (maybe closed in 2019 outside of Triennale’s days).
  • Entrance fee: 300 yen (free for Onba Café‘s customers –  obviously food and drinks are not free).
  • The island’s onba can be seen all over the village when they’re being used by their owners (they also sometimes leave them stationed in front of their houses).
  • Facebook pages: Onba Factory, Onba Café.
  • On the site: One of the main articles (there are quite a few), more…
  • Hinomaple’s articles: Onba Factory & Onba Café

Review: Onba Factory is one of my favorite spots of the whole region (would I dare to say of all of Japan?). The project represents perfectly the Setouchi Triennale’s spirit and mission; art inspiring itself from the local culture, from the island’s identity, merging with them, designed with the collaboration of the locals and becoming part of their daily life and making it better. The exact opposite of art that cut from the outside world and hidden in its ivory tower in the shape of a museum. Onba Factory is the most important artwork of the Triennale. I mean it.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

 

og07

The Space Flower – Dance – Ring

Takeshi Kawashima & Dream Friends (2019)

  • New
  • Open every day during the Setouchi Triennale (9.30 am to 4.15 pm)
  • Entrance fee: 300 yen (free with a Triennale Passport)
  • Takeshi Kawashima online: Site
  • On the site

Review: some sort of follow-up of his previous work at the same site, the artist always manages to create amazing spaces that could feel overwhelming, leaving no space empty, but somehow, it’s not too much and it works.
⭐⭐⭐⭐

 

og08

Akinorium

Akinori Matsumoto (2015)

  • Open every day during the Setouchi Triennale (9.30 am to 4.15 pm)
  • Entrance fee: 300 yen (free with a Triennale Passport)
  • Only eight people are allowed in the building at a time, so expect some waiting time on crowded days.
  • On the site: main article, more…
  • Hinomaple’s article
  • Akinori Matsumoto: Site
  • This artwork has the particularity to be owned and managed by the Ogi Community Association.

Review: A magical place. You need to take your time when visiting Akinorium (10 minutes is best, albeit not always possible if it’s a busy day). When you first enter, stay a little bit downstairs and enjoy the view and the sounds. Then move upstairs (mind your head and be careful with the stairs too), sit down and relax.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

 

og09

Name to be Determined

Gregor Schneider (2019)

  • New (from summer)
  • Gregor Schneider online: Site

 

og10

Sea Vine: on the Shoreline 

Haruki Takahashi (2010, 2019)

  • Open every day during the Setouchi Triennale (9.30 am to 4.15 pm)
  • Entrance fee: 300 yen (free with a Triennale Passport)
  • On the site (both the original artwork and its new incarnation)

Review: Simply beautiful. Make sure you look at the flowers very closely for some surprises. However, be very careful to not touch the artwork, it is quite fragile.
⭐⭐⭐⭐

 

og11

Trieb – House

Toshikatsu Endo (2019)

  • New (from summer)

 

og12

Rotation – Revolution

Lin Tianmiao (2016)

Review: I hate it. First, it doesn’t speak to me and I find ugly (but that’s a question of taste). Second, while most of the art of the Triennale celebrates the islands, this one disrespects it, some of the items that were used for it were important cultural items (traditional lacquerware) and the artist had no qualms destroying them for her art. So, let’s not dwell much on this piece and if you’re short of time, you can easily skip it. It’s probably the only artwork I truly dislike, it’s a shame it’s on Ogijima (luckily it’s in an isolated part of the village).
❌

 

og13

Memory Bottle

Mayumi Kuri (2013)

Review: One of the most beautiful artworks of Art Setouchi, and a wonderful tribute to Ogijima. Do not miss it.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

 

og14

Maison de Urushi

by Maison de Urushi Project (directed by Shozo Kitaoka and Hayato Otani), since 2010.

  • Open every day during the Setouchi Triennale (9.30 am to 4.15 pm)
  • Entrance fee: 300 yen (free with a Triennale Passport)
  • On the site
  • Hinomaple’s article
  • Maison de Urushi online: Site

Review: A place that shows what can be done with traditional urushi lacquer in the contemporary world. I love how traditional techniques are applied to the modern world this way. This project has a lot to bring. It’s the kind of place that shows how revitalization can go through other means than just tourism, for example mixing arts, crafts, local culture. However, for reasons I’m not aware of, the place is nowadays only used during the Setouchi Triennale which is a shame (between 2010 and 2013 it seemed to really start developing something permanent on the island, but for some reasons, it didn’t work out – I’m sure that if they tried again it would work this time, the island is a different place nowadays).
⭐⭐⭐⭐

 

og15

The Room Inside of the Room

Oscar Oiwa (2016)

  • Open every day during the Setouchi Triennale (9.30 am to 4.15 pm)
  • Entrance fee: 300 yen (free with a Triennale Passport)
  • Only six people are allowed in the building at a time, so expect some waiting time on crowded days.
  • On the site: main article, more…
  • Hinomaple’s article
  • Oscar Oiwa online: Site, Facebook, Youtube

Review: I love this very fun artwork, in line with Oscar Oiwa’s original and intriguing landscapes as well as his plays on perspective. When you’re in the room, do not solely focus on the strange appearance of the setting, make sure you spend a certain amount of time for the painting, there is more than meets the eye at first.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

 

og16

Walking Ark

Keisuke Yamaguchi (2013)

Review: Not too crazy about it, but I don’t mind it either. Hint: the best way to enjoy the artwork is not when you’re closest to it, but actually when you’re a few dozens of meters away and that the “island” lines up with the horizon and seems to be moving as you walk towards it.
⭐⭐

 

og17

Dreaming of Blue

Regina Silveira (2016)

Review: Nice, but not exactly mindblowing. Still, I like the fact that it adds color and personality to this otherwise very dull-looking (but very useful) building.
⭐⭐⭐

 

 

 

more

OGI Project

Team Ogi (2013-2016)

  • Team Ogi’s original project was to paint some of the fishing boats of the island. While it’s not part of the Setouchi Triennale anymore, the boats are still around and can be seen in both ports on the island (or at sea if you’re lucky).
  • On the site: main article, more
  • Hinomaple’s article
  • Team Ogi online: Facebook

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐